Last night, Cybelle and I went to an invite-only supper club at a chef’s loft in the arts district. (Her first visit after waiting on a mailing list for two years.) We had something like twelve dishes — I remember a ceviche dish with iced cocktail sauce, really rare duck cooked in a heated tub of water, pound cake topped with pop rocks, and a chicken liver sauce. They were brought out to us, one by one, like miniature courses, and before we tucked in, the chef hovered over the table and explained what was in front of us. It was during that time that most of the sixteen guests whipped out their smartphones and handheld cameras and captured, for digital eternity, the image of these immaculately prepared plates, then took small, thoughtful bites and munched in reverent silence.
Anyway, I’ve been fascinated by this distance between the practice of photographing food and the lived experience of eating for some time now, and I wrote about it for the last issue of YA5, the fantastic Portland-based arts journal co-edited by the homie David Knowles of Publication Studio, which was released in September but unfortunately remains unavailable online. (The theme-free first issue, featuring the writing of fellow eudaimonist Freddy Deknatel, can be downloaded here.) In particular, I explain why we love uploading pictures of our food online, even before we know if it’s good or not:
We do not taste the same way, but we are able to see the same way, or at least, recognize symbols the same way, and that’s most often how we relate to one another our experiences with food. Our long history of imaging our food has not meant to convey the importance of flavor or texture. These images have provided viewers with information about knowledge and desires.
In a world obsessed with information, the photograph really does food justice. It captures the maximum amount of detail, ensuring that any viewer can find at least one thing they personally understand. It is what Sontag called “a miniature of reality that anyone can acquire,” taking food out of the highly personal realm of digestion and into the familiar world of consumer society.
This issue was great and I’m still so proud to be a part of it. I loved Amy Bernstein’s meditation from the counter of a Red Robin, the flamboyance of molecular gastronomist Herve This and of course the editorials from co-editors Knowles and Sam Korman. In his piece, written about that part in Hook when Robin Williams summons a sumptuous feast with his imagination, Knowles more gracefully explains why food is a cipher for imagination:
Though smells and tastes are experience both individually and communally, these sensations resist being codified into a system of representation or a code of communication. They are a primary experience resulting from direct contact with the world itself and not its representation. The production of most contemporary food work is caught up in these Proustian themes, primarily concerned with the summoning of memories and the reclamation of authentic unmediated experience.
Read “Pics or It Didn’t Happen,” my piece on food photography, here.